Feeding tarantulas looks simple on the surface. Drop in a bug, spider eats it, end of story. In practice, feeder choice influences safety, nutrition, stress levels, enclosure hygiene, and long-term success. This article goes deep into the most commonly used feeders in the tarantula hobby, how big they are at different life stages, what makes them useful or problematic, and how to handle those problems intelligently.
The Two Golden Rules
Before diving into individual feeders, one guideline applies almost universally:
A feeder should not be larger than the tarantula’s body length.
The second, and arguably most important guideline is:
NEVER feed wild caught animals!
Wild caught animals can be contaminated with pesticides or be infected with parasites. If you do not follow this guideline, you are risking your tarantulas health.
Crickets (Acheta and Gryllus species)
Size and Development
- Pinhead crickets: ~2–3 mm (0.08–0.12 in)
- Small crickets: ~6–10 mm (0.25–0.4 in)
- Medium crickets: ~12–20 mm (0.5–0.8 in)
- Adult crickets: ~25–30 mm (1–1.2 in)
Crickets grow through multiple instars, molting frequently until adulthood.
Advantages
Crickets are extremely sensitive to vibration and movement, they feel a tarantula approaching. This makes them ideal for triggering feeding responses. They are also widely available and inexpensive.
Disadvantages and Why They Exist
Crickets smell because they produce ammonia-rich waste in poorly ventilated containers. They are noisy because males stridulate to attract females. More importantly, crickets are opportunistic omnivores. In nature, they scavenge anything edible, including soft tissue. This is why crickets may chew on a tarantula during molting. A freshly molted spider is soft, immobile, and vulnerable.
Pinhead crickets and small crickets are also very difficult to pick up with tongs, as they are quite fast and small.
How to Mitigate the Risks
- Remove uneaten crickets after 24 hours.
- Never leave crickets with a molting tarantula.
- Crushing the head disables the mandibles while preserving movement.
Tarantula: Nice to eat you!
Cricket: I beg your pardon?
Worms (Mealworms, Tenebrio molitor)
Size and Development
- Small larvae: ~5–10 mm (0.2–0.4 in)
- Medium larvae: ~15–20 mm (0.6–0.8 in)
- Large larvae: ~25–30 mm (1–1.2 in)
Mealworms are beetle larvae and will pupate if left undisturbed.
Advantages
They are quiet, easy to store at low temperatures, and readily available. Nutritionally decent when gut loaded.
Disadvantages and Why They Burrow
In nature, mealworm larvae live in soil, leaf litter, and stored grain. Burrowing is a hardwired survival behavior. Inside an enclosure, this means they quickly disappear into substrate.
Once pupated, they become beetles. These beetles have a very strong chitinous body and are unsuitable feeders. Mealworm beetles are opportunistic omnivores and may prey on freshly molted tarantulas!
Practical Solutions
- Pre-kill or crush the head.
- Feed on hard surfaces.
- Remove uneaten pieces.
Zoophobas (Superworms, Zoophobas morio)
Size and Development
- Juveniles: ~20–30 mm (0.8–1.2 in)
- Adults: ~40–50 mm (1.6–2.0 in)
Zoophobas larvae only pupate when isolated.
Advantages
High fat content, strong movement, excellent feeding response.
Disadvantages and Why They Bite
Zoophobas evolved strong mandibles as a defense against predators. They bite readily and can injure a molting or weakened tarantula.
Mandatory Safety Step
Always crush the head. Never free-roam them in an enclosure.
Dubia Roaches (Blaptica dubia)
Size and Development
- Newborn nymphs: ~3–5 mm (0.12–0.2 in)
- Juvenile nymphs: ~10–25 mm (0.4–1.0 in)
- Adult females: ~40–45 mm (1.6–1.8 in)
- Adult males: ~35–40 mm (1.4–1.6 in)
Natural Distribution and Habitat
Native to Central and South America. They inhabit warm, humid forest floors, hiding under bark and debris.
Ideal Conditions
- Temperature: 28–32 °C (82–90 °F)
- Humidity: Moderate, around 50–70 percent
They tolerate lower humidity because moisture is retained in microclimates created by debris and waste.
Why Smooth Walls Work
Dubia lack adhesive foot pads and cannot climb smooth plastic or glass. In nature, they rely on textured bark and soil.
Advantages
- Cannot climb smooth surfaces, which makes containment easy and stress free.
- Odourless and quiet, even in large colonies.
- Nutritious and well balanced as feeder insects, especially when properly gut loaded.
- Slow moving, which reduces escape risk during feeding.
- Long lifespan and hardy.
- Very safe feeder. Unlikely to harm a tarantula if briefly left unattended.
Disadvantages
- Strong tendency to burrow, especially nymphs. In enclosures with loose substrate, they can disappear quickly.
- Less stimulating movement which can reduce feeding response in very shy or defensive tarantulas.
Preventing Dubia Roaches From Burrowing
The easiest way to prevent dubia roaches from burrowing is to crush their head with the feeding tongs. Brutal, but effective. Dubias that are pre-killed this way will keep wandering around the enclosure for a while.
Red Runner Roaches (Shelfordella lateralis)
Size and Development
- Nymphs: ~4–8 mm (0.16–0.3 in)
- Adults: ~20–25 mm (0.8–1.0 in)
Natural Distribution and Habitat
Native to arid and semi-arid regions of North Africa and the Middle East. They inhabit rocky terrain, grasslands, and human structures.
Ideal Conditions
- Temperature: 30–35 °C (86–95 °F)
- Humidity: Low to moderate
They breed faster than Dubia.
Escape Risk Explained
Unlike Dubia, lateralis have better traction on textured surfaces. Any rough plastic, silicone seams, or ventilation mesh can become an escape route.
Advantages
- Highly active triggering strong feeding responses even in reluctant tarantulas. In my opinion these roaches are the most fun feeder to use.
- Smaller average size, making them suitable for juveniles and medium-sized species.
- Excellent for large collections due to rapid population growth.
Disadvantages
- Can climb textured surfaces increasing escape risk.
- More prone to escapes during feeding or maintenance due to their speed and dexterity. You do not want these to escape, unless you want to be randomly greeted by a roach under your doormat two months later.
- Skittish and quite difficult to pick up with your tongs, if you’re not used to it.
How to Make Picking Up Lateralis Roaches Easier
Wherever you are keeping them, add a piece of egg carton. When you’re ready to feed, take out the egg carton with a bunch of roaches in them and shake them off into an empty plastic container. If you have done this, then your’re able to angle the container so the roaches collect in a corner, which makes it easier to just pick one up.
Locusts (Schistocerca gregaria)
Locusts are less commonly used than crickets or roaches, but where available, they can be an excellent feeder. Their size progression makes them suitable for a wide range of tarantulas, from juveniles to large adults.
Size and Development
- Early instars: ~10–20 mm (0.4–0.8 in)
- Mid instars: ~25–40 mm (1.0–1.6 in)
- Late instars: ~45–55 mm (1.8–2.2 in)
- Adults: ~50–70 mm (2.0–2.8 in)
Natural Habitat and Biology
Schistocerca gregaria is native to arid and semi-arid regions of Africa and parts of Asia. In the wild, they inhabit open grasslands, scrublands, and agricultural areas. They are adapted to warm temperatures and a diet consisting almost entirely of plant matter.
Advantages
- Do not burrow into substrate.
- Herbivorous diet makes them less likely to damage a tarantula if left briefly unattended.
Disadvantages and Limitations
- Shorter lifespan compared to roaches.
- In the United States, strict legal restrictions apply due to their status as agricultural pests.
Because of these legal limitations, locusts are effectively unavailable to many keepers in North America and are more commonly used in Europe and parts of Asia.
Feeding Slings When Feeders Are Too Large
Slings sometimes lack the strength to subdue prey or maybe you just don’t have the right feeder size. The good thing is that they also feed by scavenging exposed soft tissue.
Effective options:
- A crushed cricket leg
- A cut section of mealworm
- A pre-killed (half) roach nymph
Storing Feeder Insects Properly (Short-Term and Medium-Term)
Not everyone wants to breed feeders, and that is perfectly fine. Many keepers buy feeders as needed, especially when they only keep a handful of tarantulas. In that case, correct storage becomes important, not just to keep the feeders alive, but to keep them healthy and safe to use.
Using Store-Bought Containers
If you buy feeders from a shop or online supplier, you can usually keep them in the container they came in for a short time. These containers are designed for transport and temporary storage, not long-term housing, but they work if you follow a few rules.
Ventilation is key. Most feeder deaths in store containers happen because of stagnant air and moisture buildup. Open the container briefly every day to exchange air. Remove dead insects immediately. Dead feeders decompose quickly and raise ammonia levels, which kills the remaining insects.
Do not overcrowd. If you bought a large quantity, splitting them into two containers dramatically increases survival time.
Using a Critter Keeper or Simple Plastic Box
A small critter keeper or ventilated plastic box works better than most store containers. The reason is simple: more air volume, better ventilation, and easier cleaning.
Add cardboard egg cartons, toilet paper rolls, or similar structures. These increase surface area and reduce stress by giving insects places to hide. Stress directly affects feeder longevity. Stressed insects die faster, smell worse, and gut load poorly.
Avoid substrate for most feeders unless specifically required. Loose substrate traps moisture and waste, which leads to mold and bacterial growth.
Temperature and Storage Logic
Most feeder insects live longer at slightly cooler temperatures, but not cold. Refrigeration slows metabolism in mealworms, which is why they are often stored cold. Crickets and roaches should be kept at room temperature. Too cold and they die. Too warm and they age faster.
The goal of storage is not growth or reproduction, it is stability.
Gut Loading Explained in Practical Terms
Gut loading is often mentioned, but rarely explained properly.
Feeder insects are only as nutritious as what they have eaten recently. A feeder that has been sitting in an empty box for days is nutritionally poor, even if the species itself is considered “good.”
Gut loading works because tarantulas consume the entire insect, including the contents of its digestive system. Vitamins, minerals, and moisture inside the feeder are transferred directly to the tarantula.
Effective gut loading does not need to be complicated.
Good gut loading options include:
- Fruit jelly cups (easy, clean, vitamin-rich)
- Fresh vegetables (carrot, zucchini, leafy greens)
- Dry fish food pellets (protein and fats)
Avoid citrus, spicy foods, or anything treated with pesticides.
Gut load feeders for at least 24 hours before feeding them off. Longer is fine, but consistency matters more than perfection.
Setting Up Your Own Roach Colony (Dubia and Shelfordella lateralis)
Breeding your own roaches is one of the most efficient upgrades you can make as a keeper. It lowers long-term cost, guarantees availability, and gives you full control over feeder quality. The setup does not need to be complicated, but it does need to respect roach biology.
Container Choice and Why Smooth Walls Matter
Use a smooth-walled plastic box with a secure lid. Smooth walls are critical because many roaches rely on tiny hooks and pads on their feet to climb textured surfaces. Smooth plastic offers no grip.
Glass aquariums also work, but plastic is lighter, cheaper, and easier to modify.
Ventilation holes should be small and covered with fine mesh. Roaches need airflow, but escapes happen through surprisingly small gaps.
Substrate or No Substrate?
Substrate is optional. Many successful colonies run without any substrate at all. I prefer adding a thin layer of substrate. With substrate, maintenance can actually be simpler, since you can remove and replace it entirely instead of scrubbing the container. As long as the substrate is kept dry and not allowed to mold, it does not negatively affect the colony.
If you do use substrate, keep it thin and dry. Excess moisture is the main cause of mold and mite problems.
Hides and Vertical Space
Egg cartons or cork bark are ideal. Roaches prefer tight, dark spaces with lots of surface contact. Vertical stacking increases usable space and improves airflow.
More surface area equals more roaches per box without stress.
Water: Why Aqua Crystals Work Best
As a water source, aqua crystals in a shallow plastic dish are ideal. They provide moisture without drowning risk and do not spill easily.
Open water dishes increase humidity too much and cause drowning, especially for small nymphs.
Replace crystals regularly. Old crystals grow bacteria and mold.
Food: Low Maintenance vs High Maintenance
For a low-maintenance setup, I recommend:
- Fruit jelly for vitamins and moisture
- Fish feed pellets for protein
This combination is clean, long-lasting, and requires minimal daily attention.
Fresh vegetables absolutely work, but they require discipline. Vegetables rot quickly, especially in warm environments. Rotting food attracts mold, mites, and flies. If you use fresh vegetables, remove leftovers daily.
Low maintenance setups win in the long run.
Optimal Conditions for Reproduction
Dubia Roaches (Blaptica dubia)
- Temperature: 28–32 °C (82–90 °F)
- Humidity: Moderate, around 50–70 percent
Dubia roaches originate from warm, humid environments in Central and South America. In captivity, humidity is often maintained naturally through roach waste, egg cartons, and respiration. You usually do not need to mist.
Warmth is the primary trigger for reproduction. A side-mounted heat pad connected to a thermostat creates a warm zone without overheating the entire container. Roaches move freely to regulate their body temperature.
Shelfordella lateralis (Red Runners)
- Temperature: 30–35 °C (86–95 °F)
- Humidity: Low to moderate
Lateralis originate from drier, hotter regions. They reproduce extremely fast when warm and do not require elevated humidity. In fact, too much moisture causes die-offs.
Because they are more active and faster, secure lids and smooth walls are even more important.
Why Heat Pads Should Be Side-Mounted
Never place heat pads under the container. Roaches instinctively move downward when overheated. A bottom-mounted heat source traps them against the heat, leading to mass deaths.
Side-mounted heat pads create a gradient. Roaches choose where to sit. This mimics natural microclimates and leads to healthier colonies.
Maintenance Schedule
A well-set-up colony needs surprisingly little work:
- Replace food and water every few days
- Remove dead roaches when seen
- Full clean every few months, not weekly
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